Crossing the Nullarbor was one of those moments that felt big before it even began. We were about to drive one of the most notorious roads in Australia, crossing the vast stretch of the Nullarbor Plain via the Eyre Highway between Ceduna and Norseman. It is roughly 1200 kilometres of road that has built a reputation for vast nothingness. We were excited, but we would be lying if we said we were not also a little nervous.
Setting off from Ceduna
We left our caravan park in Ceduna early, timing it so the sun had just started to rise. We had been warned about animals on the road and wanted as much daylight as possible. Fuel prices across the Nullarbor had also been drilled into us by other travellers, so we made sure the van was completely full before setting off.
Early stops and unexpected highlights
Our first stop was the Windmill Museum in Penong. Just off the road sits a collection of around twenty to thirty windmills spread across an open paddock. It is not the most interactive museum you will ever visit, but it felt like a fitting introduction to the journey ahead. We arrived as the sun properly rose, which made for some beautiful drone footage and a quiet moment before the long drive began.
After Penong, we continued west. We had planned to detour to Lake MacDonnell, famous for its pink water on one side of the road and blue on the other. After speaking with people at the caravan park, we learned the lake was dry due to a lack of rain. It was disappointing, especially as it was a bucket list stop for Emily, but the upside was that it saved us a fair bit of time.
Our next stop took us to the edge of the Great Australian Bight. We did not realise beforehand that there was a tourist information centre and a walking track leading out to the cliffs. Standing there, looking out over the ocean from the southern edge of the country, was humbling and a welcome break from the road.
Roadhouses and the reality of the drive
Not far down the highway, we pulled into the Nullarbor Roadhouse. There is something incredibly nostalgic about it. The original roadhouse, small and weathered, tells the story of how remote this crossing once was. The newer roadhouse offers a restaurant, bar, accommodation, and most importantly, a small pocket of internet. After hours with no service, that alone felt like a luxury. We grabbed a meat pie, took a few photos, and as if to make the moment even more Australian, there were a couple of dingoes wandering around outside.
We had planned to drive straight from the Nullarbor Roadhouse to Border Village, but we were not prepared for how many scenic pull offs appeared along the way. The cliffs of the Great Australian Bight continued to reveal themselves, giving us plenty of excuses to stop and stretch our legs. It was also along this stretch that we drove across our first emergency runway, a straight section of road used by the Royal Flying Doctor Service when needed.
Crossing at Border Village came with strict quarantine rules, including no fresh fruit or vegetables. We made lunch, used up what little fresh food we had left, and took the obligatory photo with Rooey before heading through the checkpoint.
On the other side of the border, we stopped at the Eucla Roadhouse. We had been told it was one of the cheaper fuel stops after Ceduna. While two dollars thirty a litre still stung, it was noticeably cheaper than Border Village just minutes down the road.
When crossing the Nullarbor starts to wear you down
After Eucla, the Nullarbor began to take its toll. The vastness becomes hard to explain. There is very little to distract you while driving, yet you need constant focus due to road trains and long overtakes. Add to that the strange experience of travelling back in time. There are three time zones across the Nullarbor, each shifting back by forty five minutes. Despite driving all day, we technically gained time, which only added to the feeling of fatigue.
Thankfully, the highway is dotted with rest areas. Some have toilets, most offer little more than a patch of gravel and a picnic table. Even so, they all felt safe. We pulled over, climbed into the back of the van, and had a much needed sleep.
We finished the first day at a campsite near Caiguna, a few kilometres east of the ninety mile straight. It was marked as four wheel drive access only, but the van handled it just fine. We set up, cooked dinner, and enjoyed the quiet night.
The ninety mile straight and reaching Norseman
Day two was tougher. The fatigue from ten hours of driving the day before lingered, and the main tourist stops were now behind us, except for one. The ninety mile straight is the longest straight road in Australia, and it feels every bit of it. Holding the steering wheel steady for over an hour is strangely exhausting.
We stopped at the sign, took photos in overcast conditions on the eastern side, then stopped again on the western end once the sun had broken through. From there, the Nullarbor felt endless. But eventually, the landscape began to change and we rolled into Norseman. Just like that, we had crossed the Eyre Highway and ticked off another major milestone of our journey.
Tips for crossing the Nullarbor
- Download podcasts, music, and books in advance as there is very little service
- Fuel is available roughly every two hundred kilometres, so running out is unlikely if you plan ahead
- Roadhouses are well equipped and the people working there are genuinely helpful
- Make sure you remove all fresh fruit and vegetables before crossing the border
- Give yourself time and do not rush it, the Nullarbor is not about speed but about the experience
Conclusion
Crossing the Nullarbor was less about the stops and more about the experience of the drive itself. The long distances, changing time zones, and vast open landscape forced us to slow down and fully lean into the journey. By the time we reached Norseman, it felt like a genuine milestone and a reminder that some of the most memorable parts of travel happen between destinations.
This was one of several major milestones on our trip, and you can read more stories like this in our, Our Journey posts as we travel across Australia. If you would like to see this part of the trip in real time, we have shared the full crossing in our vlog, where you can experience the road, the landscapes, and the moments along the way.