Our Journey Through Western Australia’s Best Beaches
After crossing the Nullarbor, arriving in Esperance felt like a reward. The coastline, the fresh air, and the colour of the ocean instantly lifted our mood. Our Esperance and Cape Le Grand National Park experience quickly became one of the highlights of our trip. What we thought would be a quick stop turned into some of the best beaches we have ever seen.
First impressions of Esperance
We arrived in Esperance after finishing our second day of driving across the Nullarbor. After hours of remote landscapes, it was incredible to see the coastline again.
Our first stop was the local information centre. A friendly local described the beaches as a postcard. Coming from Australia, we were sceptical. We are used to great beaches. But we were about to be proven wrong.
We were also told that free camping is not allowed in Esperance, so we needed to find somewhere to stay.
Finding accommodation in Esperance
We were recommended the overflow camping area as a budget option. It is close to town and allows a short stay.
When we arrived, it was not quite what we expected. It was a basic red dirt lot with little appeal. So Emily got on the phone and started calling caravan parks.
After nearly two hours, she secured one of the last available sites in town. It was more expensive, but being able to walk to the beach made it worth it.
The Great Ocean Drive Esperance
The next morning, we set off early to explore the Great Ocean Drive Esperance, a 40 km loop packed with incredible coastal views.
Our first stop was Rotary Lookout. A short walk gave us sweeping views of the coastline and Lovers Cove below.
Esperance beaches that feel like a postcard
West Beach
West Beach was our first real stop, and it set the tone immediately.
Emily stepped out of the van and instantly said it looked like a postcard. The water was crystal clear, and the sand was bright white.
Blue Haven Beach
Blue Haven Beach was our favourite along the drive.
It sits in a sheltered cove, protected from the wind. That made it perfect for swimming and relaxing. It was also the ideal place to get the drone up and capture the coastline.
Twilight Beach
Twilight Beach is one of the most iconic stops on the Great Ocean Drive Esperance.
The large rock just offshore makes it instantly recognisable. At the right time, you can swim out and jump from it, which we could not resist doing.
We ended up spending most of the day here.
Finishing the drive
We continued on to Observatory Point, Nine Mile Beach, and Ten Mile Lagoon.
By the afternoon, the wind picked up. In Esperance, wind direction matters a lot. Some beaches become exposed very quickly.
We finished the loop at Pink Lake Lookout. It is no longer pink, but it still offers a great view and photo opportunity.
Overall the Great Ocean Drive was fantastic, and we found it much more our style than the Great Ocean Road as you could swim in the beaches and enjoy spending less time in the car.
Cape Le Grand National Park
The next day, we headed out to Cape Le Grand National Park, and this is where Esperance truly blew us away.
Frenchman’s Peak hike
We started with the hike up Frenchman’s Peak.
It is a 3 km return walk, but it feels much harder. The climb is steep, and at times you are using your hands to get up.
Add in the wind, and it becomes a real challenge. But the view from the top makes it worth it.
You can see across the entire Cape Le Grand National Park coastline.
Hellfire Bay
Hellfire Bay was one of the best beaches we have ever seen.
The water is so clear that even the waves are transparent. The sand is soft, white, and almost untouched.
It is one of those places that photos cannot fully capture.
Thistle Cove
Thistle Cove feels completely different again.
It has a rugged, almost Mediterranean feel. Large rock formations, walking trails, and a hidden beach make it a great place to explore.
Lucky Bay kangaroos
Lucky Bay is famous for its beach kangaroos.
We arrived in the middle of the day, which meant no kangaroos and plenty of wind. Timing is everything here. Early morning or late afternoon is your best chance.
Even without the kangaroos, the beach is still incredible.
Cape Le Grand Beach
We finished the day at Cape Le Grand Beach.
This was one of those simple van life moments. Sitting in the back with a drink, looking out over the ocean, and taking it all in.
Where to stay in Cape Le Grand National Park
We stayed at Dunns Eco Park, a family run campsite focused on sustainability.
It is basic but well set up, with a great camp kitchen and a peaceful atmosphere. For the price and location, it is a great option.
Wharton Beach Esperance
On our final day, we drove out to Wharton Beach, about an hour from Esperance.
This quickly became our second favourite beach in the area, just behind Hellfire Bay.
The water was clear, the sand stretched for miles, and there were actually some fun waves to surf.
Condingup Tavern
We finished the day with a stop at Condingup Tavern.
Recommended by a local, it lived up to expectations. A relaxed country pub with a great outdoor area and solid food.
Our Esperance travel tips
- Check wind direction before choosing beaches
- Book accommodation early, especially in peak season
- Visit Lucky Bay early morning or late afternoon for kangaroos
- Allow at least two to three days to explore properly
- Do not rush Cape Le Grand National Park
Final thoughts on Esperance and Cape Le Grand National Park
Esperance and Cape Le Grand National Park completely exceeded our expectations.
From postcard beaches to rugged hikes, it is one of the most beautiful regions in Australia.
If you are travelling across the Nullarbor or through Western Australia, this is a stop you cannot skip.
See more from our journey
You can read more of our experiences in our Our Journey series as we travel across Australia.
And if you want to see it all in action, check out our full Esperance Vlog Here